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How to read forecast pages

Posted at 1:17pm on 15th Dec, 2005

Most surfers when using Surf Forecasting sites will be used to interpreting open ocean buoy data - then trying to figure out what is happening at their local break.

Surfcore's near-shore forecasts are quite different as the properties of the swell change significantly when it gets nearer to shore and enters shallower water. The model that we use transforms open ocean data, taking into account refraction, diffraction, friction, and the local bathymetry (underwater landscape). As well as the inshore local 'sea', or chop, height and direction due to the winds.

Therefore, while the open ocean data may say that it is a 12 sec period, near shore is in going to be a 10 sec period. The model is not perfect but we do believe that it is the best currently available. If we get it wrong please tell us - feedback is invaluable, and can be left on our feedback forum.

Key:

  1. Show rating for beginner/experienced:

    A beginner surfer will be able to get experience and fitness from a wider variety of conditions. If the wave is smallish and onshore they will be able to practise duck diving, paddling and catching waves.

    An experienced surfer is looking for cleaner waves with a bit more punch.

  2. Ratings
    • no stars - Unsurfable. Either flat or huge and onshore
    • 1 star - There is a lump out there
    • 2 stars - Just surfable
    • 3 stars - There is surf
    • 4 stars - Good surf
    • 5 stars - It's pumping!
  3. Tidal information

    The blue wave behind the stars shows the tides. By hovering the mouse over the blue tide wave more detailed times for low and high tides are shown. These tide times are correct to ±¼ to 1 hour.

    Tide clocks
  4. Map

    The triangle(s) on the map indicate where the waves normally break at the selected beach. The direction and strength of the wind is shown and this changes accordingly as you move your mouse over the different days in the forecast. The direction and period of the swell is shown on the map too, and this changes in a similar way to the wind.

  5. Breaking wave height

    This is literally the full height of the front of the set waves just before they pitch and break. Keep in mind that this is always open to interpretation, and one person's four foot wave is another's six.

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